Missoula Montana to Tensleep, Wyoming
Following our stop at the Nine Mile Ranger District, we headed back to Missoula. We were well aware of the weather reports that were dispelling news of severe weather and driving conditions. I was a little apprehensive, just due to my inherent unease with bad weather driving. But we pushed further east, driving through a snowstorm. Upon reaching Livingston, Montana, we were alerted to the most recent reports: from Livingston to Red Lodge driving conditions were terrible, poor weather was continuous. Cars and trucks were scattered throughout the center median, some having slid out, others flipped upside down, and some actually crushed by impact with other vehicles. The journey was nerve racking to say the least.
At Laurel, Montana, we deviated from the interstate and headed south toward Tensleep along WY Highway 310. WY 310 is one of my favorite drives in the state; despite its heavy usage as a main route for rigs down to the Bighorn Basin gas fields and the many sugar beet farms in the region, it still manages to feel very isolated. The road borders the Pryor Mountains, a large, muted brown and grey range stretching from North to South. The Wyoming state border is fairly close to the range, and upon entering the state the Bighorns loom to the near east of the road, appearing drastically different in the geology on the north end than they do in the center and southern area of the range. The once ash colored dirt that makes up the gorgeous hills outside of Frannie were now covered with snow, making the landscape look like something that I’d expect on the Moon.
A distant thunderstorm; Wyoming State Highway 310, south of Frannie. July, 2010
On highway 310, at the Wyoming border. We jumped out of the car and took some snap shots.
Reaching Manderson, a small town of around 50 people, I encouraged Andrea to hit the alternate route, which passes Hyatteville along the Nowood Creek. But venturing through Manderson it was clear that my often used shortcut was out of the question; a foot and a half of snow blanketed the roads, so we would now have to continue on to Worland and connect at WY Highway 16 East.
We cranked up the music to help us get through the last half hour of the trip: Lady Gaga works wonders. Pulling the car into Tensleep at 11:45 p.m. felt like the greatest relief and accomplishment as we had covered what would generally be a 5 hour trip in a total of 12 hours. Later we learned that on that day alone, 163 vehicles had been in accidents along that stretch of Interstate 90.
We parked in the lot of Bighorn Tattoo, Sarah’s business. Since my last visit to the shop, Sarah has painted the building what we like to call Tensleep Orange, with deep brown accent color-it looks gorgeous. Sarah sauntered over to Andrea and I, wearing a pair of Carharrt overalls, a short sleeved shirt, and the sides of her head recently shaved. It’s safe to say that she has acclimated to the weather and ways of the Bighorns.
Swinging open the door of the Bighorn Bar forced the thick scent of cigarettes and stale beer in our faces, and I couldn’t help but laugh and think to myself “it’s good to be back.” Thinking of the many dynamics of a small place like this: the good, the odd, the dirty, the old men, the smell of two-stroke, and pine; it’s all a part of this place, and I love it. Sarah handed me a drink token with the silhouette of the bison on it-totally holding keeping it; I still have a token I won from a sheep rancher in a game of Trivial Pursuit back at the Invasion Bar in Kaycee, Wyoming.
We had a great time catching up, playing some pool, and celebrating the birthday of a local man. The night stretched on and the time came to get some sleep. Sarah set us up with a nice place to crash, and we said our goodbyes. She would be up early to make the trip to Thermopolis with Sue and some of the other local dinosaur diggers to spend a long day assembling a new find: a dinosaur called Apollo.
Andrea and I woke Saturday morning a little apprehensive about the condition of the Powder River Pass, our route to Buffalo. Tensleep Canyon is my favorite location in the state of Wyoming, possessing some of the most stunning colors, often appearing very diverse with the change of the light, the weather, or the seasons. I have been to the canyon in the late spring, many times throughout the summer, and have enjoyed the fall colors as well; but pulling the car over was imperative this time around. The colors of the canyon in winter rival all the other times I have sat and enjoyed the scenery. The rocks and trees were covered with a fresh, light snowfall, and the sky was a powdery blue; all of the conditions made the landscape the most gorgeous I think I have ever seen.
Tensleep Canyon, August 2010
Tensleep Canyon, June 2009
Andrea and I got into the car, feeling glad to have spent some time in Tensleep. On the long trip to the Bighorns, we had lamented the effort and many hours it had taken to arrive, but reflecting on the fun times, good company, and gorgeous landscape, we felt happy to release those feelings of anxiety from the drive over, and head over the mountain with enthusiasm and excitement.
A snow dusted Tensleep Canyon, November 2010
Also, Happy Thanksgiving!






Comments
IT WAS SO GOOD TO SEE YOU / MEET ANDREA. Best of luck on your unfurling adventure!